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 Post subject: Sissy Bar Removal
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 12:14 pm 
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Not quite at this stage yet but various things I've read have suggested that the sissy bar might be siezed into the frame down tubes.

Is there a clever "cheat"to get these out without damaging the frame?

I was thinking of timber on the rear brake bracket and a hydraulic jack to push the sissy bars up?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:09 pm 
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Location: Forres, Scotland
This is the stage that will help make up your mind which way to go.
If the sissybars are stuck and need some heat to free them, and if the welds are dodgy at the drop outs. Then you'll defenaitly need a respray.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 2:57 pm 
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hi Jon could always go for a chemical strip-- :oops: this will also loosen the rust and will help sissy removal-in fact for £30ish they even took mine out and the frozen seat tube too!!!! got my bike back in bits--great job!!!!

J.C.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 8:56 pm 
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Location: The toon
If you don't mind knacking the sissy bar cut through the top round bit and get a metal bar and twist each side..that has worked for me twice...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 10:09 pm 
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Location: maidstone, kent
cut the top half of the bar off- then heat with welding torch which will make the tubes slightly expand and with the help of mole grips and a vice twist the 2 seperate bars out of the tube, cool down the tubes with bucket of water and tubes relax to normal size- job done! its worked every time for me!

and to stop the bike from ever rusting again if left in the shed or garage simpley leave a bag open coal next to the bike which then acts as a sponge to draw in and obsorb any dampness in the air getting to the bike- or keep indoors like i do :D

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 11:17 pm 
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Location: Forres, Scotland
If you are usong heat on the seat tubes remember the sissybars go down a good halfway into the frame.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:43 am 
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The secret is to get the sissy bar to twist in the frame, thus breaking the bond. Ive nevber failed yet , but usually resort to holding the sissy in a large vise and wiggling the frame back and to whilst heating the downtubes (hot air gun works good ..but oxy acetelene may be needed)

But remember this...you may find that it just needs a twist by putting a piece of 2x4 wood through the sissy and gently twisting whilst holding the frame tight ..they often come out o.k.

The piece of wood and scisor jack rarely works..simply pushing up isnt enough , you need to twist the bars to break the rust seal.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 4:09 am 
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J.C The Reproman wrote:
hi Jon could always go for a chemical strip-- :oops: this will also loosen the rust and will help sissy removal-in fact for £30ish they even took mine out and the frozen seat tube too!!!! got my bike back in bits--great job!!!!

J.C.


When you say "chemical strip" are you talking about the places that do doors? Dip n' Strip places?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 4:59 am 
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your sissy bar looks to be raised quite high so i reckon robs suggestion and a little lube will be fine.


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 Post subject: Re: Sissy Bar Removal
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:27 am 
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Location: Essex
Thought I'd revive this ancient thread and share my experience of removing a properly stuck sissy bar in the SE.

Image

Note the electrical tape, this is part of the process. It is covering holes in the frame. Also note that the sissy had been installed at its lowest setting, with at least 7 1/2" in the frame :shock:

Image

These holes are factory, they're there in the tubing to allow the expanded gasses within the tubes to escape when the frame is constructed (brazing).
Application of easylube through these holes allow the fluid to penetrate right where it needs to be. This sissy was so stubborn though, I decided the way forward was to tape the holes at the back and literally fill the top tubes with the lube.

Image

Image

Regular applications through the holes on each tube ensured that the fluid made its way down to the interface between the sissy and the rear stays. This took place over about 3 weeks, in addition to some brute force with wood wedged between the two sides to twist and break the seal, as described above. You can employ this method without the need to sacrifice the bar, you'll get a barely perceivable movement but when it first goes with a bit of a 'crack' it's mighty satisfying. Keep working it, more easylube, bit of a tap every now and again, more easylube etc.....

Image

And the result :D

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Patience, some force but not enough to deform frame or sissy - job done. No heat involved.

Beware, best not to do this on your lounge carpet though......

Image

The stuff that leaks out of the inside of the bars when you eventually do remove it is naaaaaasty!


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 Post subject: Re: Sissy Bar Removal
PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 6:29 am 
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I sprayed WD40 down mine for two days, let it soak, and it came out with a bit of brute force! Mind you, I think I was lucky. Not too much rust. Removing the stand was much more trouble!


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